Solved: Woven wire mesh - Inventor Forum

Hi @Anonymous,

Jiushen Product Page

Any particular reason for modelling a wire mesh?

Whilst you can model it, it will result in a lot of faces and edges which will slow Inventor down without adding much to the model.

If you don't need to simulate the mesh then use an appearance to represent the mesh.

Leo Warren
Autodesk Student Ambassador Diamond
Please accept as solution and give likes if applicable.

Hello to Skye and all the other Orchidists who expressed interest
in the weaving post. Firstly, as other Orchidists have already
remembered, the book I was trying to remember was Arline Fische&#;s
"Textile Techniques in Metal" (thanks Steve Brixner). It is an
excellent reference.

Because so many have expressed interest, I&#;ll try to verbalise my
experience as succinctly as possible in this direct post. Remember
that I do this in titanium so I rivetted where gold and silver may
be soldered.

General description: A brooch/pendant with woven titanium used as
a heat-treated blue background symbolising the waters of the Great
Barrier Reef, onto which was pinned an 18ct yg Australian
Aboriginal motif turtle. Also pinned onto the Ti, were small bezel
set diamonds implying bubbles and sparkles. This was mounted onto
an 18ct yg frame which incorporated a chenier tubing for a chain
and a joint pin and catch for brooch wear. The blued weaving gave
an attractive shimmering watery quality to the design. The piece
was designed in a vertical format - around 6 cms long and 3 cms
wide.

For more information, please visit weave metal mesh.

Materials: Straight strips of titanium 0.2mm thick and around
2.0mm wide and as long as you need. I rolled the titanium down from
1mm sheet then cut my strips from the thin sheet to make sure they
were straight.

I prepared 12 vertical strips and rivetted them between two pieces
of 18ct yg plate 2.5mm wide and 0.5mm thick. This stabilised the
strips. The vertical Ti strips, equivalent to the weft or woof, had
just enough air space between them to allow the horizontal strips
to be maneouvred to form the warp. Naturally, I worked with strips
a little longer than I needed. I pretextured each strip with a pink
compound grinding burr to give the Ti an attractive satin finish.

As each horizontal strip was maneouvred into place, I drilled and
rivetted it to each of the outside verticals with 0.7mm platinum
wire rivets. I used platinum because I wanted to make a feature of
the row of white metal dots down each side of the woven Ti. (The
platinum doesn&#;t oxidise when the Ti is blued.) At first, I had
some trouble pulling the horizontal warp tightly down onto the one
below, but soon worked out that a sewing needle with its tip turned
over into a fine hook helped me pull each warp down tightly against
its neighbour. I&#;d get one side down nice and tight, drill and
rivet, then pull the other side down to a neat level fit then
drill and rivet that in turn.

Eventually I had a neat tight rectangle of woven Ti with a strip
of gold across its base, and a neat row of little platinum rivets
running vertically down each side. When all my other design
attachments were ready to be pinned on, I carefully blued the Ti by
heating, then fitted the design elements in place. The final step
was to fit the frame which carried the chenier for the chain as
well as the joint, pin and catch mechanisms and voila! A final
polish with the rouge mop and it was done.

One more little thing. When I set the bezel-set diamonds into the
mesh, I used 0.01 and 0.02ct diamonds which I preset in gold
chenier. After determining the height of the setting, but before I
cut it from the chenier, I filed a subtle taper into the chenier.
This allowed me to push the setting into its hole in the Ti weave
and the slight taper kept the setting in place.

I could then turn it upside-down on a lead block and rivet it into
place. I don&#;t know why, but I had a sudden inspiration to use a
small round burr instead of my usual rivetting punch. The
serrations of the burr&#;s cutting edge cut into the thinner tapered
metal behind the diamond and opened out the gold chenier like the
petals of a flower. Naturally I made the settings deep enough so
that the rivetting burr didn&#;t touch the diamond. The lead block
gave just enough support without marring the fine bezel setting
around the diamond. This little touch was unexpectedly attractive
and suited the aesthetic of the piece.

I have photo&#;s of the piece both in its component bits before
assembling and then as a finished piece of jewellery, which I&#;m
quite happy to share, but I&#;m not sure if I can scan and send
images via . I&#;m sure there&#;s a way.

Hope I haven&#;t rabbitted on for too long, and I hope this is
understandable. Let me know if it&#;s not and I&#;ll try to clarify
any queries. Kind regards, Rex from Oz

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