10 Questions You Should to Know about FUYI Brush

1. Which Fuji HVLP spray gun do I own?

Please click here to browse our Fuji HVLP spray gun identification chart, to help you determine which Fuji HVLP spray model you own.

With competitive price and timely delivery, FUYI BRUSH sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.

2. Are HVLP turbine spray guns easy to use?

HVLP spray guns are easier to use than most, especially when compared to high-pressure spray guns. This is because the pressure is low, resulting in a softer spray pattern. Turbine spray guns also operate with much less pressure at the spray head than the compressor HVLP spray guns (conversion type). So you can expect even less overspray and bounce back with a turbine spray gun. Even for a novice, it takes very little practice to spray and achieve professional results with a turbine spray gun ' thanks to the lower velocity. If you can use a paintbrush, you can spray with HVLP.

3. How does brushing compare to spraying?

In order to spray intelligently, it's helpful to know just how similar spraying is to brushing ' in fact, at Fuji, we often say that a spray gun is simply a paintbrush with no bristles. Some points of comparison include:

Brush: Paint is liquid in the can and applied with a brush to form a liquid layer on the subject (any object, such as a board).

Spray: Same, but the spray gun air cap atomizer (converts) liquid to small particles.

Brush: Paint is normally applied straight out of the can.

Spray: Paint must be thinned.

Brush: You instantly begin moving with the brush as you begin to make a pass across the board.

Spray:  You start to make the pass and pull the trigger just before the edge of the board.

Brush: After the brush passes off the edge you stop your pass.

Spray:  You let go of the trigger just after the edge of your piece to ensure full coverage.

Brush: You overlap passes with the brush to blend into and over a portion of the last pass.

Spray:  You overlap about 50% over the previous pass to make the transition invisible.

Brush: When you dip the brush in the paint can, you wipe off the brush to make sure you don't apply too much paint at one time. Excess causes runs, and it also forces you to move too fast.

Spray:  You adjust the fluid control (at the rear of the gun) to reduce the material flow, allowing you to move at a reasonable speed.

Brush: The angle you hold the paintbrush should not change significantly while making a pass.

Spray: Generally speaking, the spray gun is held at 90 degrees to the project throughout the pass. However, as long as the angle of the gun is kept the same, the gun can be held at a slight angle if necessary.

1. How can I tell which air cap set I should use?

Please refer to our Quick Reference Sheet for guidance to help with your air cap set selection. We advise using your viscosity cup to measure the run time of your finish material. Needles, nozzles, and air caps belonging to each specific size should be kept together.

2. How far away should I hold the spray gun?

The Spray Pattern is fan-shaped, so for a larger-sized fan keep your spray gun at a distance of 6'-8' from the surface. Moving too close will increase bounce back while moving too far away can produce a dry spray. Bounce back occurs when the airflow from the spray gun carries the finish away from the surface you're spraying. The main causes of this will be holding the spray gun too close to the surface while spraying or using too much airflow for turbine spray guns and too much pressure for compressor-driven spray guns. The closer your spray gun to the surface is and the greater the airflow/pressure, the more bounce back you will observe. Dry spray occurs when the material cures before it reaches the surface you're spraying. The most common cause is holding your spray gun too far from the surface. For fast drying finishes, using too much air or too little finish for the airflow can result in a dry spray. Use the pattern control to adjust the width of the fan to the desired size. Don't forget to readjust the fluid control to ensure optimal coverage. When using a small round fan pattern to spray smaller surfaces, move closer to the target.

3. Can I spray walls & ceilings with HVLP?

While HVLP Turbine Systems were designed for fine finishing, thousands of people have used the Fuji Systems to paint walls/ceiling and they are very happy with the results. For better results, choose a paint with lower viscosity and a higher tolerance for dilution. Before you begin, make sure to mask all adjacent surfaces. Thin your paint according to the air cap set you're planning to use. See your quick reference sheet for guidelines. You may need to add slowing agents/dry time extenders such as Floetrol to promote better leveling. It's best to use bottom feed spray guns such as T-70. It will hold more finish and the material cup can be readjusted to ensure proper material intake when spraying ceilings. The cup attached to your gun will require constant refills. When spraying large area's it is recommended to use a 2Qt pressure pot.

4. Is thinning necessary or important with HVLP?

The viscosity of coatings is important. Although we supply a guide, there is often some experimentation involved in arriving at the best viscosity. If a product is thinned too much, there are runs. Too thick and 'orange peel,' or rough finish is the result. When thinning, it is essential to use a reducer that is compatible with the material you are using. It is wise to experiment on a practice piece to ensure that the finish is perfect. Request information from the coatings manufacturer ' don't forget to mention you are spraying with HVLP equipment. Water-borne lacquers can be applied successfully with HVLP. Some of these products require no thinning whatsoever (but some do). Many of these newer coatings contain a high-solids content of 60% or more, so the turbine must also be powerful enough to handle waterborne products. Several thin wet coats are preferable to one or two thick coats.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit FUYI Brush.

5. Can I spray household trim with latex (house paint)?

Yes, HVLP is ideal for this application ' but you must follow a few general rules in order to achieve a good finish. If you intend on spraying latex emulsion paint (house paint) most of the time, please consider purchasing the more powerful 4-stage turbine systems. To spray latex paints successfully, some rules must be adhered to. The latex should be 'finish-quality' (the best grade). For best results, a latex additive should be used. Additives or extenders are not for thinning ' it is a product that prevents the paint from drying too quickly ' in other words, it is a 'slowing agent' ' it slows the drying process allowing the paint to level more smoothly. You still must thin with water. Thin the latex with water ' upwards of 20% should be enough. The 1.5mm ' 1.8mm is preferred for adequate coverage on items like household trim, louver doors, fireplace mantles, cabinets, etc. When spraying latex, be sure to turn the fluid control to limit the paint to a finer spray. This will increase the ratio of air to paint and result in better atomization and a beautiful finish. (Factually speaking, it doesn't increase the ratio of air to paint but does the opposite ' it allows the air atomizing power to work on less paint, thereby improving the quality of atomization). Spray the paint on 'wet like a lake'. In other words, it must be completely wet in order to flow out nicely and look smooth. If you are only seeing droplets on the surface, open up the Fluid Knob for more products. HVLP is designed for fine-finishing, and this includes furniture, pianos, cabinets, automobiles, machinery ' anywhere a 'Class A' coating is to be applied. If you already own airless equipment, you'll find that an HVLP system will complement it perfectly. Although there is some overlap, every family of spray systems on the market has its special place.

6. What is the secret to spraying latex paints?

1) Use the air cap set 1.8mm.
2) Thin the paint upwards of  20% with water.
3) Use additives if necessary.
4) Add the 6ft whip hose to reduce air temperature through the gun.
5) Hold the gun no more than 8' (20cm) away.
6) Apply a full, wet coat.

7. Can I spray nitrocellulose lacquer?

It's the same answer as with any coating ' yes' just so long as you thin it appropriately. Spraying of lacquer may be prohibited in your location. Please check with the local jurisdiction. Lacquer fumes are toxic and flammable (combustible), so adequate ventilation is absolutely necessary. Explosion-proof light switches, fixtures, and an extraction fan are a must. Lacquers were formulated to dry extremely fast. The very fact that the turbine motors become hot and produce heated air can be counter-productive with lacquers. If you spray as you would with regular slow-drying paints, you may find that you can only spray a dry coat or you get orange-peel. But as always, there are ways around problems like this.
1) Use the standard size air cap set.
2) Apply at least 2 coats of lacquer sanding sealer first, and sand flat. The sanding sealer sands nicely (unlike some lacquers) giving you a perfect base for the topcoats.
3) Thin the lacquer until it levels out on its own (unless this contravenes local rules).
4) Add a lacquer slowing agent to slow the drying process if dry time becomes a challenge.
5) Add another hose to the standard 25ft hose. This will result in the air passing through the air cap cooler. If you also want more flexibility and lighter weight, choose a whip hose #F
6) Get in close with the gun and apply a wet coat.
If all of the above instructions are followed, then a beautiful finish will result. This assumes that the spray gun is held no more than 8' away from the surface being sprayed (closer is ok). We also assume is that the lacquer is thinned enough. In fact, if you have done all of the above and are still getting orange-peel, you will likely have to thin more. Always use lacquer sanding sealer and thinner/solvent from the same company to ensure compatibility

8. Can I use the 3M PPS System Cups with the Fuji?

Yes, if the correct adaptor is used.
The Fuji T70 spray guns use the #18 PPS' adapter.
The Fuji T75G spray guns use the #2 PPS' adapter.
For the Fuji G-XPC gravity spray gun use the #24 PPS' adapter.
Please note that for other Fuji models, you will likely need a different adapter. To find out more information or to purchase these 3M PPS Accessories for your Fuji Spray guns please Click HERE or HERE

9. How do I use the Q5 Platinum Variable Speed Controller Dial'?

The Q5 PLATINUM turbine is equipped with a Variable Speed Controller' to adjust the speed of the motor. To decrease air pressure, simply turn this dial counter-clockwise. To increase air pressure, turn the dial clockwise.
Click here for full instructions on how to use your Variable Speed Controller Dial'.

10. How can I reduce overspray?

Overspray can be reduced to an absolute minimum by doing the following:
a) Adjust the size/shape of the spray fan pattern to suit the object. This may mean moving the gun closer than the maximum 8'. Thin objects such as spindles or railings can be sprayed with the round pattern and the gun held up close. Overspray is caused by the particles that 'miss' the object.
b) Thin only as much as necessary and no more. Experiment with less thinning. However, always remember, the paint must be thin enough to level out on its own after being applied wet. Make a note of the thinning for next time.
c) Never hold the gun further than 8' away from the surface. Closer is better.
d) Reduce the air pressure at the air control valve. Practice first on scrap material rather than your project. Once the point is reached where the finish starts to suffer, open the air control valve slightly for more air. The complete project can now be sprayed with the same setting for the air. Reducing the pressure is the best way to reduce bounce back and overspray to an absolute minimum. If the finish is not sufficiently thinned, then you will not be able to reduce the air. The paint must level on its own.
e) Learn to engage your trigger on and off accurately. Remember, as you come off an edge and continue to depress the Trigger, hundreds of particles are being sprayed into the air. Eventually, this will build up 'mist' in the room. The Fuji High-Efficiency Aircaps reduce overspray significantly (installed in all our spray guns).
f) Use some type of extraction fan and spray close to it. You may need an explosion-proof fan depending on which product you are spraying ' please check with the local jurisdiction.

I have been collecting make-up brushes for many years. It all started because I noticed that great brushes helped me a lot with the application of makeup. They made my experience easier, faster and much more fun. So I decided to blog about it.

I started my blog in , even though I had a very busy personal and professional life. I was working regularly on-calls at night. It was intense and quite exhausting, but playing with make-up and brushes acted like a reset mechanism,- it allowed me to feel calm, and look rested and fresh! It was amazing and kind of magic! I was so intrigued and I started to look for better quality brushes and this took me straight to Kumano, Japan. Finding Kumano is when this journey took insane proportions. I met the artisans and I found my second home.

After this, my love for handmade Japanese brushes escalated quickly. My collection started to grow rapidly but I did not only buy brushes made in Japan; I looked at the whole beauty industry as I had my blog and I wanted to see what beauty brands were creating. I was so curious to see if their designs were engineered to work with their make-up products, and how the quality compared to Kumano brushes. This is why today my collection is so diverse- I own many different brushes from many brands. Old, but also recent releases. My interest and love for brushes is still very very strong and my collection continues to grow.

I do my best to keep my brushes in rotation as much as I can, but, realistically, it's impossible to keep them all in rotation. This is why a safe and functional storage system is so important. Today, in this post, I wanted to share with you the best practices for safe storage and I'll also share any issues I've had after 12+ years. In my next storage related post coming very soon, I will share all the tricks and the storage I have and give you some examples.

Keep them in rotation

We often have backups or duplicates of our brushes. Using them in and out of rotation is better than not using them at all, this is why:

• Taking them out will air the bristles, Just like with us humans, fresh air and ventilation is good for them.
• Washing them too regularly is not good for the brushes. On the other hand, giving them a wash from time to time helps keep them in good shape for longer.
• As you rotate your brushes, you can keep an eye on their condition. If you notice for example that the natural bristles become dry, putting them back into rotation will make the bristles interact with our skin natural oils and this may help restore their condition.

Sometimes we just love brushes and enjoy collecting them. These less used or unused brushes may be precious gifts or special editions, and they will be impossible to replace at a later time. For those reasons, storing them in the best conditions is very important.

Your storage organization and needs are going to be different whether you have 20, 200 or brushes- There are many ways to organise them, but these best practices apply to all:

• Keep them away from direct sunlight
• Don't store them in a humid environment and also, make sure they are completely dry before you store them
• Place them in a way that air can circulate easily
• Avoid rapid changes in temperature/humidity ' this has also an impact on the glue, the ferrule and the handles
• Store them away from clothes and dust
• If possible, keep them in a place that is easily visible or accessible so you can reach for them more easily.

Sunlight or changes in temperature/humidity will deteriorate any type of brush: natural and synthetic. It will have an impact on the glue inside the ferrule. Also, metals and wood expand and retract with the surrounding environmental factors. If a brush starts shedding, this could mean the core of the brush is damaged. It's normal that a brush sheds, but if you notice that a brush starts shedding too much, give it a wash with soap, rinse very well and let it fully dry. Don't use it for a while and then check if it continues to shed. I would never recommend to use a brush when it's still wet and also, never put them back in storage without letting them dry completely.

It's important to not store your brushes like you would store cutlery, (unless you happen to keep space around your cutlery for air to circulate!) Ventilation is very important, but excess dust or humidity are not good. This applies to so many things, our clothes, our cars, our bags, etc. Tracking humidity changes can be difficult, so we use Aranet devices around the house- These let us track humidity and temperature over time and also CO2 levels which act as a proxy to know how much ventilation we're getting. They are small and cable free so you could also place them in a drawer if you want to remotely check changing conditions.

Try not to store your brushes next to your knitwear! My husband is a bit of a maniac when it comes to handling clothes, specially after a trip where we've stayed in many locations, or when we purchase a new piece. We either wash, or steam our clothes when we unpack from a trip. The same applies if we purchase anything- it gets steamed or ironed before going in the wardrobe. We want to avoid any issues with clothes related pests and this is the best way to prevent them. After a trip, our daughter's soft toys rest in the freezer (stored in a plastic bag) for 48 hours!

And after 12 years of storing brushes'

I am so happy to report that after so many years and so many brushes, I have only had to get rid of 2 brushes after one major incident. It's good to know that such a big issue only caused little damage ' it could have been much worse'. Here's what happened:
We live in an old house that we are renovating very slowly. While we were in the process of renovating the kitchen and bathroom, an invisible leak developed in the bathroom. One wall in my office is shared with the bathroom and the leak spread humidity throughout the wall to behind one cupboard where I store all my brushes. The cupboard's back was entirely damp- so much so that the dampness went inside the brush drawers and onto the brushes. We didn't notice it because we were busy and then we left on a trip and did not react quickly enough.

I noticed the damage that water and humidity caused on the brushes only when we came back. Many brushes were impacted, both natural and synthetic ones. On some, the damage was concentrated in the ferrule. First I panicked. Then I washed everything and let the brushes fully dry. After one wash the brushes were back to normal. I washed them again, but they stayed strong- no mold developed and no issues to report. In the end I only decided to throw away 2 brushes because the glue was impacted and the color of the ferrule had changed. What surprises me the most is that I never thought they would be ok after this incident and yet, they are still working perfectly well, and 4 years have now passed.

Airing them, washing them with an appropriate soap is key to keep them in great condition.

I am in the process of taking pictures of my current storage so that I can share how the brushes I own are organized, maybe it will give you some ideas. I have many drawers, but also many brushes so I had to be very creative in order to store them in a way I can instantly find any brush that I need, and it works!

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