Do you need hose clamps on push lock fittings?

The hose also comes in a variety of types. The hoses&#; part numbers indicate the temperatures, pressures and chemicals it will withstand. But all hoses have an internal braid or mesh to give it strength. When pressing a fitting into the hose, the hose expands slightly to accommodate the larger diameter of the fitting&#;s barbs.

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Once the hose is completely pushed onto the fitting and into the yellow cap, the internal liner material conforms to the barbs under the pressure of the braid and the outer skin of the hose. The hose then acts like a Chinese finger trap. Trying to pull the fitting off makes the braid shrink around the liner and tighten its grip on the barbs, making nondestructive removal nearly impossible.

Assembly

Pushing the hose onto the barbed fitting may seem simple, but it is like trying to push a rope up a hill. Keeping the hose aligned with the barbs on the fitting is key, so stabilizing the fitting is a must. Putting enough force on the hose without it buckling can be challenging, especially when not using a tool to assemble it. Several other factors further complicate the process:

• Hose temperature. The colder the hose, the less it will want to expand to get over the barbs on the fitting.

• Hose diameter. Larger diameters are easier to assemble, while #4 hose, the smallest, is typically the toughest to install because it doesn&#;t have as much material to expand to get over the barbs on the fitting. Additionally, small-diameter hoses are harder to hold onto with your hands.

• Maintaining a

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  constant pressure and feed rate once the fitting is partly in the hose is important to successfully complete installation. Often, getting the hose over the first two barbs goes well, but in the time it takes to stop and reposition your hands for the last push, the hose liner get a grip on the first two barbs and it is difficult to impossible to get it moving again. In such cases, there is little choice other than to cut the hose off and start over.

• 90-deg., 45-deg. and banjo fittings (which lack a surface to push against) can be a challenge. Putting them in a vice can mar the finish and may not work at all when in the field. Tube stub fittings should not be put in a vice because it damages the ferrule&#;s sealing surface. And pushing against a flat surface typically just causes a slide-out with hand injury.

I don't know if it depends on the particular hose or not, but my experience trying to get braided hose on push-lock fittings never ended well.  I could get it onto the first barb at best, but on all 3?  Forget it.  I tried heat, lube, oil, both, all of the above, etc., all spectacular failures.  

I had a project that was going to use a bunch of it.  I did some searching and found this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kts-409b

Yes, it's expensive, no argument there (although I think it was less when I splurged for it).  But damned if that thing doesn't work spectacularly.  Put a drip or two of oil on the inside of the hose, let the cordless drill do the work, and boom, one completed, leak-free hose end.  I've probably done like 75-100 hose ends with it by this point, so it now seems like money well spent.  

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