Uro-Tec Medium-Duty Polishing Pad - Leno's Garage

 

Leading Diamond Tools supply professional and honest service.

• Our most aggressive foam pad, intended for medium to light defect correction
• Open-cell foam provides distinct polishing characteristics
• Designed and balanced specifically for standard and long-throw DA machine
• Available in 6", 5" and 3" sizes

Our high-quality, open-cell foam material provides excellent durability and polishing characteristics all while fighting excessive heat build-up.  Our Uro-Tec pads are specifically designed to work with standard, and long-throw dual-action style polishers. Variations in the density of foam help achieve specific results during different phases of the polishing process. Our maroon Uro-Tec pad is meant to be used for polishing situations where medium to light defects are present.

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Join Date: Jul

Location: Chandler, Arizona

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Drives: Alpine White 328i M-Sport

While we're waiting.... since this was my first time doing paint correction, i learned a lot. I just wanted to pass along some observations about the cutting/polishing process that i didn't expect / found interesting that they don't seem to tell you in the detailing videos i viewed on the subject:

1) Using a DA random orbital polisher with any liquid compound leaves a splatter extravaganza ALL over the car. What a MESS! Taping off windows, trims, etc.. helps, but i mean, tiny micro splatter drops get EVERYWHERE. And I make sure I don't turn on the polisher until the pad is in contact with paint, and don't lift it off until its off and stops rotating, but it still leaves a mess. Dayum. Had no idea it was this messy of a process. They don't tell you that in the detailing videos you watch on YouTube. You just always see the final product and everything is hunky dory. I must be doing something completely wrong possibly using too much product and at some point the foam pad gets saturated and it flies out the sides when i press the pad too hard against the car.

2) Putting swirls, random scratches, hazing, holograms, marring and other paint defects INTO your car's clear coat seems to be a LOT easier than the effort it takes to remove them. Hours of cutting, then polishing seems to be required to remove what seems to take only seconds to put in. Thats pretty f***** up math if you ask me.

3) The above might be true due to the hard paint BMW uses. I guess this is great in terms of resisting swirls and other random things that can scratch clear coat, but it becomes a nightmare to correct when trying to cut/polish out deeper imperfections. I had always heard that M105 can take out most anything, but not completely true when it comes to harder paint jobs like BMW cars.

4) I used Meguire's 105 cutting compound, then followed with Meguire's 205 polishing compound. I think they are effective for what they are supposed to do (general haze/swirls, but not deeper than that) but they tend to be very difficult to remove off the car if left over residue remains after the application. A lot of effort is required to wipe it off, especially when its dried. I try to take it off immediately after i finish polishing an area, when its still relatively wet, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. Its definitely much harder to remove than any wax or final sealant or LSP product I finish with (typically, these just wipe off with minimal effort with MF polishing towel). Taking off M105/M205 residue sometimes requires a fingernail. No joke.

5) Did some searching around on the Internet, and I guess these left over scratches i'm seeing are called

Nobody?While we're waiting.... since this was my first time doing paint correction, i learned a lot. I just wanted to pass along some observations about the cutting/polishing process that i didn't expect / found interesting that they don't seem to tell you in the detailing videos i viewed on the subject:1) Using a DA random orbital polisher with any liquid compound leaves a splatter extravaganza ALL over the car. What a MESS! Taping off windows, trims, etc.. helps, but i mean, tiny micro splatter drops get EVERYWHERE. And I make sure I don't turn on the polisher until the pad is in contact with paint, and don't lift it off until its off and stops rotating, but it still leaves a mess. Dayum. Had no idea it was this messy of a process. They don't tell you that in the detailing videos you watch on YouTube. You just always see the final product and everything is hunky dory. I must be doing something completely wrongpossibly using too much product and at some point the foam pad gets saturated and it flies out the sides when i press the pad too hard against the car.2) Putting swirls, random scratches, hazing, holograms, marring and other paint defects INTO your car's clear coat seems to be a LOT easier than the effort it takes to remove them. Hours of cutting, then polishing seems to be required to remove what seems to take only seconds to put in. Thats pretty f***** up math if you ask me.3) The above might be true due to the hard paint BMW uses. I guess this is great in terms of resisting swirls and other random things that can scratch clear coat, but it becomes a nightmare to correct when trying to cut/polish out deeper imperfections. I had always heard that M105 can take out most anything, but not completely true when it comes to harder paint jobs like BMW cars.4) I used Meguire's 105 cutting compound, then followed with Meguire's 205 polishing compound. I think they are effective for what they are supposed to do (general haze/swirls, but not deeper than that) but they tend to be very difficult to remove off the car if left over residue remains after the application. A lot of effort is required to wipe it off, especially when its dried. I try to take it off immediately after i finish polishing an area, when its still relatively wet, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. Its definitely much harder to remove than any wax or final sealant or LSP product I finish with (typically, these just wipe off with minimal effort with MF polishing towel). Taking off M105/M205 residue sometimes requires a fingernail. No joke.5) Did some searching around on the Internet, and I guess these left over scratches i'm seeing are called RIDS ? Anyways, i'm getting a way better idea what i'm up against. Some people seem to get to a point of complete physical exhaustion trying to get rid of these remaining RIDs, so i'm debating what i want to do moving forward... Just an aside, seeing these RIDs for the first time clearly after hours of paint correction work, my first knee jerk reaction is that somehow i put these there during the process. I mean, i could have, but after reading other people's postings, i'm more confident that they were always there, but masked. Its just a bit shocking/startling to do all that work, only to see paint defects replaced by other defects. Quite discouraging actually. This car being a DD, though, makes me re-think the time and effort going into trying to make the paint perfect.

Last edited by squidlyboy; 12-02- at

11:59 PM

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